The best circular walk in the North York Moors

Day 3


Levisham to Egton Bridge         

15 miles



We set off in good weather with a chilly wind, but had to put up our hoods to cope with frequent showers of stinging hail.

We walked out of Levisham along Braygate Lane which turned into a rough track after about half a mile.  After a gate we were walking across open moor and our path led us to the folly known as Skelton Tower.  This tower has a terrific situation overlooking Newton Dale Gorge and in his 'Inn Way' book Mark Reid explains that it was built in 1850 by the Rector of Levisham.  This eccentric vicar built the folly as a place he could escape to, to clear his mind and, it is suspected, enjoy a quiet drink.


We reach the moor after leaving Levisham

Newton Dale appears ahead

The folly of Skelton Tower

"Let down your hair..."

Looking into Newton Dale from the tower

We followed the moor top along Newton Dale until we descended to Havern Beck.  As we did so the sky became very black and we scrambled into our waterproofs as sleet began to fall.  The descent, already muddy, became very slippery as the sleet turned to heavy snow. 

The path alongside Newton Dale Gorge

The Whitby train passes below us

About to descend to Havern Beck and it's time for waterproofs

We get under cover for a coffee while waiting for the weather to improve


The snow eased as we crossed the railway line and began to climb out of the valley to Needle Point but the path was often flooded and large muddy puddles had to be negotiated.  As we reached the viewpoint at Killing Nab Scar snow began to fall once more.


Crossing the railway line in Newton Dale

Climbing towards Needle Point

Memorial bench en route

Carole at the viewpoint Killing Nab Scar


Robin at Needle Point

We then spent some time following forest tracks until we eventually reached a small gate next to a ruined building and the open moor ahead.

Our next problem area was the long moor crossing to Simon Howe and then The Two Howes, as the going was slow and boggy.  The narrow paths were flooded and it was difficult to step to the sides because of springy heather.  As we turned towards Goathland the path improved.  It seemed a very long walk in from the moor but it was worth it when we reached the Tea Room at Goathland. 

The moor path to Simon Howes

We descend off the moor to Goathland



Shall we go in?


You bet!

The atmosphere was warm and cosy in the tea room and we put our gloves in front of the warm fire to dry whilst enjoying coffee and cream scones.

As we left the tea room the weather improved and we even saw a bit of blue sky as we approached Goathland Station.


Goathland Station


A short walk took us to the very pretty hamlets of Darnholm in the valley of  Eller Beck, where we passed the tiny pub called Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole.  The pub sign is a painting of Eller Beck by Algernon Newton, a member of the Royal Academy who used to drink at the pub.

Leaving the station towards Darnholm

Carole at Darnholm


We liked this sign

Birch Hall Inn at Beck Hole


Pub sign

This 'guy' gave us a shock

Easier paths followed Beck Hole and we walked along the bed of a disused railway which Mark Reid explains is the site of Stephenson's original railway.

Old railway walk


Retriever weather vane near Egton Bridge

The final descent through woodland was a welcome sight despite some slippery stretches.  Arriving at Egton Bridge we found that we had to cross some stepping stones to avoid a longer stretch of road walking.  The recent rain meant the river was deep and the greasy stones made crossing rather exciting. 

Our accommodation, The Old Mill, was just beyond the stepping stones. We were given a very large and comfortable room.

Later we ate at the Horseshoe Hotel and crossed the stepping stones for the outward journey but after several pints of Black Sheep Ale took the longer route to return to our accommodation.


Wet stones and deep water make Carole careful


Arriving at The Old Mill

To Day 4


No comments:

Post a Comment